The Hambella district of Guji produces some of Ethiopia's most sought-after coffees, and Wondafrash's Buku Abel station sits at the heart of this renowned region. At 2,350 meters above sea level, the thin mountain air and intense equatorial sun create unique challenges—and opportunities—for coffee processing. The 74165 variety, cultivated by smallholder farmers on surrounding hillsides, benefits from volcanic soils rich in minerals and dramatic temperature fluctuations between day and night. These conditions allow cherries to develop concentrated sugars and complex fruit characteristics that define exceptional Ethiopian coffee. The extreme elevation also means extended maturation periods, giving the variety time to develop the layered sweetness that makes this natural process lot so compelling.
about the process
Natural processing at 2,350 meters requires a different approach than at lower elevations. The intense sun at this altitude can dry cherries too quickly, leading to uneven fermentation and inconsistent flavors. Wondafrash has developed a rhythm that honors both the power of the sun and the needs of the coffee. Cherries arrive from nearly 20 neighboring farmers and are spread on raised African beds within 24 hours of harvest. Each day follows a careful pattern: beds open around 7 a.m. as morning sun warms the mountain, then are covered by 11:30 a.m. when sun intensity peaks, reopened around 3 p.m. as temperatures moderate, and covered again at 5 p.m. for the cool night. This 12-14 day rhythm allows cherries to dry slowly and evenly, giving them time to absorb maximum flavor from the fruit while preventing the over-fermentation that can occur with too-fast drying. The result is a natural process coffee with clarity and sweetness, not just intensity.
about the producer
Wondafrash Edema's path to coffee production reflects both family heritage and personal innovation. Born into a family of 29 siblings—nearly all working in Ethiopia's coffee sector—he spent over a decade as an exporter before the 2017 regulatory changes allowed him to pursue production. This background gave him unique insight: he knew exactly what international buyers valued because he'd been connecting them with Ethiopian coffee for years. When he built Buku Abel washing station in 2019, he chose the location deliberately, understanding that elevation and microclimate would define quality. Six harvests later, Wondafrash has refined his approach to natural processing, learning how to work with—rather than against—the intense conditions at 2,350 meters. His relationship with the 20 smallholder farmers who supply Buku Abel reflects coffee's role as community connector in Ethiopia, where coffee production sustains not just individual farmers but entire extended families and neighborhoods.
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